MALADY OF THE MONTH

Malady of the Month is an occasional column in the Puppy Pipeline newsletter
that deals with heath and behavior problems of Guide Dog Puppies, and their solutions.

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Diseases	Gastro-Intestinal System	Skin, Muscles & Bones	Credits
Environmental Hazards	Reproductive System	Urinary Tract

DISEASES
	Canine Parvovirus Parvo is highly contagious and attacks rapidly reproducing cells, such as those lining the gastrointestinal tract, bone marrow, lymph nodes, and heart. It is transmitted from one dog to another via contaminated droplets and feces. It can be carried on the dog’s hair and feet, as well as on contaminated cages, shoes & other objects. Dogs of all ages are affected, but the highest mortality occurs among puppies less than five months of age. After an incubation period of seven to fourteen days, the first signs are severe depression with loss of appetite, followed by vomiting. The dog appears to be in extreme pain, with a tucked-up abdomen. Within 24 hours, high fever develops (up to 106 degrees F) and a profuse diarrhea which is frequently bloody. Mouth inflammation can occur. Almost no other canine disease produces such devastating symptoms. Success of treatment is variable, depending on the severity of the infection and age of the dog. It includes fluid and electrolyte replacement, medication to control diarrhea and vomiting, and broad-spectrum antibiotics to prevent secondary bacterial infections. The puppy usually must be hospitalized for intensive management. Dogs that recover are immune to the disease. What You Can Do Prevention is the key since parvovirus is extremely hardy and contagious. It is vital to follow your puppy’s vaccination schedule to the letter. Until a young puppy has completed all its vaccinations, do not take it to high-dog-traffic areas such as pet stores or parks. Carry the puppy during vet visits–even in the parking lot and exam room, since vet offices are where you are most likely to encounter infected dogs. Adult dogs must receive a parvo booster every year, and the same precautions around public dog areas should be followed when there is a known parvo outbreak going on.
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	Kennel Cough Kennel Cough is a harsh, dry hacking cough sometimes followed by retching. Some describe the cough as having a 'honking sound.' A watery nasal discharge may also be present. Kennel cough is caused by several different viruses and bacteria, but most frequently canine parainfluenza virus and the bacteria Bordatella bronchiseptia. Aside from the cough, most dogs are bright and alert, have a normal appetite and normal temperature. With rest and a warm, stress-free environment, most dogs recover in seven to fourteen days. What You Can Do If you touch an infected pup, wash your hands and the clothing you were wearing, and wash your puppy's puppy coat if it was exposed to the sick animal. For the puppy living with an infected dog, strict hygiene with thorough cleaning and disinfection of cages and food and water containers is essential. Agents causing kennel cough can be transmitted on hands and clothing as well as through the air, so infected animals must be isolated and handlers should use proper hand washing to help prevent spread. If your dog comes down with kennel cough, call your leader immediately to arrange for a vet visit and excused absences from club meetings. Kennel cough should be treated by a vet and the dog kept isolated to prevent spreading the disease. It is usually a self-limiting disease and most animals do not require treatment. Kennel cough is a disease of dogs, it does not appear to be a risk to healthy humans or cats.

	Leptospirosis: Canine Leptospirosis is caused by bacteria called spirochetes. It is spread in the urine of wild and domestic animals, in water sources and soil. Leptospirosis affects the kidneys and liver. Symptoms include fever, loss of appetite, vomiting, lethargy, depression, muscle pain and sometimes diarrhea or blood in the urine. In severe cases, jaundice and bleeding from the mouth and in the stools may occur. Cases of leptospirosis are becoming more common in Colorado (updated 5/08). Wild populations of raccoons serve as the reservoir for this disease. People can be affected too. What You Can Do: New puppies are now authorized to receive Lepto vaccines at their 12 and 16 week boosters, if the local vet recommends it. In addition, always follow GDB recommendations for where to take our pups to avoid contamination, keeping young pups away from high dog traffic areas such as greenbelts and parks. Don't allow your dog to drink from water puddles. Since raccoons may frequent our own backyards, eliminate areas of standing water and keep a watch for the symptoms, just in case. For more information, click on this link: Centers for Disease Control & Protection
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	NEW FLU VIRUS - Autumn 2005 From Guide Dogs for the Blind Vet Clinic There has been a lot of concern recently over news of a new flu virus affecting dogs. This virus is similar to "kennel cough" but can cause a much more severe pneumonia infection. It was originally seen in Greyhounds at racetracks in Florida, but it is suspected to have spread north and west to as many as 13 states. The most common clinical signs seen include coughing, runny nose, fever and lethargy. Currently it is believed that this virus has arisen from a mutated strain of a horse influenza virus. Since it is a new virus, no natural immunity exists in dogs and there is no vaccine currently available. It is considered extremely contagious and is spread by oral/nasal secretions from affected dogs. This disease does not affect people. What You Can Do: Luckily, the vast majority of dogs that contract this new virus show mild "kennel-cough" signs that do not require hospitalization or aggressive treatment. Most dogs will get better on their own, just like people with the flu. However, some dogs have become quite sick and a very small percentage of dogs have even died from this virus. These fatalities have been confined primarily to the very young, old or stressed animals, especially in kennel situations. Treatment for the very sick primarily involves aggressive hospitalization and supportive care including intravenous fluids to prevent dehydration and help the animal heal itself. Antibiotics will not kill the virus, but have been used to help prevent or treat secondary bacterial infections that may develop. It is important not to panic or overreact to this disease. It seems the hysteria and misinformation is worse than the disease itself. To date, very few dogs other than the original racing greyhounds have died as a result of this infection. However, as always, if your puppy is showing any signs of sickness, especially ones suggestive of this disease, it is best to have your local vet examine him/her.

	West Nile Virus West Nile virus is transmitted when mosquitoes carry virus particles in their saliva and infect birds or animals during blood-meal feeding. West Nile virus has been detected in at least 110 bird species. West Nile virus has become a concern in Colorado in the summer of 2003. While infected mosquitos can bite our pets, the virus does not usually cause serious illness in dogs and cats. These animals are dead-end hosts; once exposed, they do not pass on the disease. What You Can Do From your Guide Dogs for the Blind veterinarians: West Nile Virus does not cause significant illness in dogs, so prevention of infection is not a concern. Use of mosquito repellants is not necessary. However, if you worry anyway, use the same precautions with your puppy you would for yourself. Keep him in the house in the evening when mosquitos are active. If you live in or are traveling or camping in a mosquito infested area, spray your dog's coat with Avon's "Skin so Soft" product, which is an effective and safe mosquito repellent for dogs. Don't use insect sprays containing DEET, because dog lick their coats and could ingest this harmful chemical. For more information, click on this link: Centers for Disease Control & Protection. (Information from the CDC, with thanks to puppy raiser Dot Dill for the tip about dog-safe insect repellent).

ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS Back to top
	Anaphylactic Shock Anaphylactic shock is an immediate, serious reaction that occurs when a dog is exposed to an allergen to which it has been sensitized previously. The most common causes are shots and insect stings. Initially, there may be local signs at the point of contact, including pain, itching, swelling and redness. With acute anaphylaxis, the allergic response becomes generalized, either immediately or over the course of several hours. Signs are agitation, face scratching, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, difficulty breathing, weakness, collapse and seizures. Untreated, anaphylactic shock can lead to death. What You Can Do If you suspect that your dog is having a mild allergic reaction, try to determine if he has been stung or bitten. Remove the stinger by scraping it out with a credit card (not tweezers). Apply a baking soda paste and ice pack for swelling and calamine lotion for itching. Call your veterinarian--he may recommend an antihistamine like Benadryl. If the dog exhibits signs of anaphaylaxis, it is an emergency! Get him to the nearest veterinary facility immediately. When the dog recovers, call your leader and report the incident.

	*Artificial Sweeteners* From Guide Dogs' Vet Dept. Recently, there has been a fair amount of veterinary press about the dangers associated with dogs ingesting xylitol, an artificial sweetener used in a variety of products including candy, baked goods, chewing gum and toothpaste. Ingestion of even small amounts of this sweetener can cause seriously low blood sugar levels in dogs. In some cases dogs have also developed liver failure after ingesting the sweetener. *What you can do:* Keep products containing xylitol securely out of your puppy's reach. If your dog should get a hold of a product containing xylitol, induce vomiting immediately by administering two tablespoons of hydrogen perxoide and call your club leader to discuss whether a vet visit is needed.
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	Fleas Fleas are the leading cause of itching in dogs. Usually flea bites cause a mild itch, but heavy infestations can cause anemia and even death, especially in puppies and small dogs. Flea bites can cause an allergic reaction which manifests in skin sores called flea allergy dermatitis. They also carry dog tapeworms. Fleas are small, dark brown, wingless insects that have powerful back legs and can jump great distances. They move through the hair rapidly and are difficult to catch, but can be found on the dog's back, groin and around the tail and hindquarters by using a fine-toothed flea comb. Fleas can be diagnosed by finding fleas on the dog or by seeing sand-like salt-and-pepper grains in the coat. These are flea feces and eggs. When brushed onto a wet paper, the digested blood in the flea droppings turns reddish brown. Fleas thrive in warm, humid climates, and can live up to 115 days on a dog, but only a few days off the dog. After a blood meal, the female lays her eggs, which then fall off the dog. Eggs hatch in ten days; larvae feed on debris in rugs, bedding, and furniture. The pupal stage can last for days or months. After hatching, immature adult fleas have two weeks to find a host. Only about one percent of the flea population is composed of adult fleas--other 99% remain in the invisible egg, larval, and pupal stages. An effective flea control program must treat the environment and the dog. What You Can Do: Fortunately, fleas aren't common in Colorado, but they can occur, especially if a dog has recently been visiting flea country, like Texas, the Midwest or California. Staying in a kennel with flea- infested dogs from out of state is another way Colorado dogs may contract fleas. Colorado dogs can pick up fleas locally if they go to a wilderness area where there are prairie dogs, rabbits or foxes. These areas usually have tall grasses & weeds. Keeping your dog under control and away from wildlife areas should minimize the threat of picking up native fleas. Colorado puppy raisers don't routinely treat our dogs for fleas, unless we are planning to travel to flea country. Make arrangements to get the flea preventive from your leader before you travel. If you do bring "passengers" home from another state, the fleas should die on their own in a few weeks--they usually can't reproduce in our dry, high climate. If you think you have a persistent flea problem, contact your leader for advice on a program that treats both the environment and the dog.

	Foxtails Foxtails are a serious hazard for any dog. Pets are vulnerable to the exposed seed awns (foxtails) of various grasses. Foxtails can work their way into a dog's skin, but like a fishhook, they cannot work their way out. Emergency surgical intervention is often necessary to remove them. Symptoms include rubbing the eyes or squinting; swollen eyelids, repeated violent sneezing, nosebleed, rubbing the ears or shaking the head. There may be a raised, infected spot on the skin or between the toes, as well as excessive licking of the toes and feet. What You Can Do To prevent foxtails from embedding in your dog, remove all foxtails from your yard, preferably before the seed-heads form. Do not let your dog walk or play in areas that contain foxtails. When hiking or walking the dog, do not let him off the walkway and don’t let him sniff the areas where foxtails are present. A foxtail can be inhaled in seconds! Check your dog thoroughly between the toes, behind and in the ears, and by combing through the coat. Foxtails can migrate through the body and are potentially life threatening. If your dog shows any signs of having an embedded foxtail, call a leader and make arrangements to see the vet immediately.
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	Glue From Guide Dogs Vet Department Polyurethane glue, including some brands of popular all-purpose glue can pose a health concern for dogs. The smell of these types of glues is attractive to dogs, and they will consume it if left within their reach. Once ingested, the glue expands inside the dog's stomach, creating a firm foamy cast, distending the stomach and causing an obstruction. The only treatment is immediate surgery to open the stomach and remove the material. It only takes a small amount of ingested glue to cause a problem. The ASPCA reports that there has been a 740% increase in cases involving glue ingestion since 2002. What You Can Do Avoid using or storing polyurethane glues entirely. However, if you must use them in your household, please take every extra effort to isolate the product from your pets. Polyurethane glues include Gorilla Glue, Masterbond and Permibond as well as other types of adhesives and sealants used in wood and metal working. They usually have the words polyurathane, urathane, or polymer in the label.

	Grapes and Raisins There have been reports on the internet that grapes and raisins are poisonous to dogs and can cause kidney failure and death. Unlike many internet rumors, this is true. According to the ASPCA, “the dogs who ate the grapes and raisins typically vomited within a few hours of ingestion. Most of the time, partially digested grapes and raisins could be seen in the vomit, fecal material, or both. At this point, some dogs would stop eating, and develop diarrhea. The dogs often became quiet and lethargic, and showed signs of abdominal pain. These clinical signs lasted for several days — sometimes even weeks.” Blood chemistry panels showed patterns consistent with kidney damage. In some cases, dogs who received timely veterinary care still had to be euthanized. What You Can Do Teach your puppy not to take food from tables and counters, or pick it up off the floor. Since Guide Puppies are never allowed people food, grapes as treats shouldn't be a problem. Just to be on the safe side, don't keep raisins and grapes on the counter where your pup could snatch them. If you puppy does accidentally get a single grape or raisin, it's probably nothing to worry about. If it eats several, it's best to induce vomiting and call a leader to see if a vet visit is in order.

	Heat Stroke Heat stroke occurs when a dog's body temperature rises above its ability to cool itself by panting. Heatstroke can set in a matter of minutes, and most commonly occurs when dogs are locked in parked cars left in the sun. Symptoms include rapid, noisy breathing; bright red tongue and mouth; thick saliva; vomiting; elevated temperature; an unsteady, staggering gate; bloody diarrhea; weakness; coma and death. What You Can Do Never leave your puppy in a parked car (even relatively cool days can be dangerous if the car is in the sun), or anywhere he cannot find shade and water on a hot day. If your dog is overheated, move him to cooler quarters, such as an air-conditioned room. More pronounced cases can respond to immersion in cool water. If your dog is in real distress, seek emergency veterinary attention at once.
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	Ingestion of Foreign Objects Our puppies, whatever their age, occasionally mouth objects they shouldn’t–everything from socks to rocks, from sewing needles to sticks and beyond. Ideally, an alert puppy raiser wrests the item away before it goes down the gullet, but sometimes the dog is too quick on the gulp, or the ill-advised swallow wasn’t witnessed at all. If the dog is lucky, he will vomit it up on his own, or the object will be passed in a few days without any problems. Other times, diarrhea will occur, but the object will still be eliminated. In the worst case, the object is too large to be passed and must be taken out surgically. If a dog seen swallowing something develops intestinal woes, it’s not hard to deduce the problem. If the act was not witnessed, it may take an X-ray to confirm that something untoward has taken up residence in the undiscriminating dog’s gut. What You Can Do If you saw your dog ingest a foreign object, and not more than two hours have passed, it is best to induce vomiting. Administer full strength hydrogen peroxide (one tablespoon every 5-10 minutes until you get results) or two tablespoons of dry salt, and the dog will bring up the contents of its stomach. It’s a safe bet that if the dog could swallow the object, it can get rid of it, too. Longer than two hours, however, and the object will likely have passed from the stomach to the intestines, and vomiting will be of no help. Do not induce vomiting for caustic substances or sharp items that could cause more damage coming up. If you have questions or concerns about your dog’s freelance diet, call a leader to discuss whether a vet visit is in order. If you think your dog has ingested something poisonous, call the National Animal Poison Control Center Hotline at 800-548-2423 or 900-680-0000, and call your vet immediately.

	Injuries We all safeguard our Guide Dog puppies as best we can, but with young, active dogs, accidents can happen in the blink of an eye. Tails are sometimes caught in doors; feet can be cut, muscles sprained. Puppies that escape can be hit by cars, stolen or lost. Have Paws members have an excellent track record of never having had a dog dropped or lost due to an accident, but we have had an occasional mishap over the years–from the dog years ago that lost the tip of its tail in a door to another’s recent foot injury. Prevention is definitely the best medicine for injuries! What You Can Do Be vigilant about the safety of your house and yard. As time wears on, metal landscape edging that was buried safely can become exposed, posing a laceration hazard. Boards can work loose from fences, gates come unhinged, and puppies dig, causing a formerly-secure yard to become escapable. Innocent anti-freeze changes can lead to unsuspecting poisoning, as can holiday decorations and everyday houseplants. Address safety hazards as soon as you identify them: buy plastic cap for the metal edging or remove it; repair the fence; keep poisons out of reach. Never allow your puppy more freedom than it can handle. A bored puppy will find a way to get into trouble. Kennel time will keep the puppy safe if you are unable to watch it properly. If an accident should happen, take care of the pup’s needs first, then call a leader immediately to report what happened and how you’re handling the situation.
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	Mulch Cocoa mulch, made from cocoa bean shells, contains potentially toxic quantities of theobromine―the ingredient in chocolate that is toxic to dogs. The chocolate-like smell of the mulch can be attractive to dogs and deadly if they ingest it in quantity. What You Can Do Be aware of the ingredients in mulches, fertilizers and pesticides you use, and the toxicity of plants in your garden. Then take steps to keep your puppy safe.

	Paper Shredders PAPER SHREDDERS POSE DANGER TO DOGS! Ellen learned that firsthand when her golden retriever ambled into her home office and licked her paper shredder. To her horror, the machine latched onto his tongue, and began to grind. "He was screaming, and he was fighting for his life," says Ellen, adding that in his panic, the 67-pound puppy did even more damage to his mutilated tongue. She disconnected the shredder, and took him to a nearby emergency hospital. What You Can Do: Unplug shredders when not in use. Store shredders out of reach of animals (and, of course, children). Never put food wrappers through shredders. Do not leave shredders on the "automatic" setting. Buy a shredder with a safety bar at the opening. From: FOSTER FILES (a newsletter for Foster Families of the Fidelco Guide Dog Foundation), April 2007

Back to top	Skunk Spray from Darla Welty Although "getting skunked" is more of a problem for rural dogs, our puppies may visit natural areas or encounter a skunk right here in suburbia and end up smelling nasty! What You Can Do: Knowing what to do and having the ingredients on hand will save you and your dog from suffering any more than necessary. Skunk wash can be easily made at home from common ingredients. Buy enough ingredients for a few washings, and keep them and the recipe where you can get to it quickly. Here are two recipes. The recipe with the smaller ratio of peroxide is preferable for dogs whose coat color may be affected adversely by the peroxide (such as an all black dog). Recipe #1 1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide 1/4 cup of baking soda 1 teaspoon of liquid soap Recipe #2 1 pint 3% hydrogen peroxide 2/3 cup baking soda 1 tablespoon liquid soap Mix this up at the time of use (the mixture must be fresh to work properly). Pour or sponge it on the dog. Knead it well into his coat. Be careful to keep the formula out of the dog's eyes, nose and mouth; you can use a sponge to carefully wipe it onto his/her face. Let it sit two to five minutes, then rinse with plain water. If a second dose is needed mix a new batch from scratch. The mix reacts with the chemicals in the skunk spray and oxidizes them. If the mix is not fresh, the reaction will not work.

	Tie Downs Dogs can become entangled in a tie-down and get in trouble fast. Most dogs learn how to deal with being on a tie down, but when sleeping, may roll over and end up hog-tied, which is at best uncomfortable and at worst dangerous. What You Can Do: Never attach a tie-down to anything but a flat collar (esp. not to a head collar!), and do not leave your dog home alone on a tie down; use the kennel instead. When you do use a tie-down keep the dog in the same room with you and make sure to stay aware of his safety at all times.

	Ticks Ticks are a small, flat arachnids whose life cycle includes fastening onto animals in order to feed on blood. Ticks transmit diseases including Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and toxins that can paralyze. Ticks are attracted to a dog’s ears, neck, head, and between the toes. In Colorado, the most common places to get ticks are in the mountains, tall grass, or brushy areas. Tick season in Colorado begins in the spring and continues until the weather turns cold. What You Can Do Whenever you’ve had your dog in tick country, be sure to groom it thoroughly, checking carefully for ticks. If you find an embedded tick, kill it by applying rubbing alcohol, gin, or fingernail polish with a cotton swab. Wait a bit and then grasp the dead tick as close to the skin as possible with a tweezers and apply steady traction until it releases its hold. Don’t worry if the head stays fixed to the skin–it will probably clear up by itself in a few days. Watch the dog carefully for behavioral changes that may signal tick-borne disease. If you are planning a trip to tick country, call a leader for flea and tick preventative, and use it!
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Collar with Safety buckle	Twisted Collars from Andrea Loughry I had heard that dogs can get entangled in each other's collars when playing, but I didn't give it much thought until it happened to my dogs. The two of them were playing on the rug when I heard one of them cry out. Her hind foot was hung up–twisted--in the other's rolled leather collar. No worries, I thought, I'll just unbuckle the collar. Wrong! It was so tight that the buckle wouldn't budge. Next I got a scissors and started gnawing away at the leather–but rolled leather is nearly impossible to cut through: no luck. By now his eyes were half shut; he was strangling to death. I tugged desperately on the buckle again, and this time it opened. Thank heavens that after the ordeal, both dogs were fine. Then I started to think–what if the collar had been metal instead of leather? What if they had been playing in the yard instead of right next to me? Usually when dogs become entangled, it involves their jaws, not their legs; if it happens unwitnessed, one or both dogs can be seriously injured or killed. I was so lucky that I was right next to my dogs when it happened, and that my efforts at cutting the collar loosened it enough to unbuckle it and save my dog's life! What You Can Do Get a collar with a quick release buckle for your pet dog. Do not let dogs play unsupervised, and never leave them together in the yard alone. Never leave a chain or training collar on your dog and make sure buckle collars fit snugly to minimize the chances of getting entangled with another object or a dog!

	Urban Wildlife In Colorado, we live with wildlife all around us. As suburban sprawl encroaches on wild areas, clashes between wild animals, people, and our pets become more frequent. Raccoons and foxes are nocturnal, and may not be seen, but they serve as a reservoir of diseases such as rabies, distemper, and leptospirosis. Another threat to our puppies comes from coyotes, and less commonly mountain lions. Compared to chasing down a deer or rabbit, a fat, wobbly three-month-old puppy may look like a tempting midnight snack to an urban carnivore. It is not unknown for a coyote or fox to lie in wait and snatch a puppy during a late-night potty sessionóeven with a person standing on the porch watching, and an adult dog in the yard! Others snatch small dogs right from their leashes on evening or night-time walks. What You Can Do There are several simple steps one can take to safeguard our puppies from attack--especially when they are small and haven't been fully inoculated. Keep the puppy on a leash at all times. Never allow the puppy loose in the yard until you have thoroughly checked that the gate is closed and everything is secure. Stay and watch the puppy; don't leave a young puppy unattended in a yard, even for a few minutes, especially at night. Don't leave pet food outside for wild creatures to snack on--they will not leave your pet alone because they are 'full' of the food you offer. Instead, they will become more of a threat by being attracted to your property. Light your yard with flood lights or motion detector lights. Keep garbage in tightly sealed containers, and keep the containers clean so they don't smell and attract wildlife. Walk your dog in well-lighted, busy areas and avoid places where coyotes and fox frequent, like the Highline Canal, greenbelts and streams. If you meet a coyote or fox when you're out for a walk, keep your distance and do not approach it. Keep your dog as close as possible to you on its leash--if it's small enough, pick it up and carry it. Move as quickly as you can to well-lighted areas where there are more people present. If the animal approaches you, throw rocks or sticks and use a loud authoritative voice to frighten it away. Some people recommend carrying a can filled with rocks or coins that you use as a noisemaker. If you see a coyote or fox in your yard and your pup is inside the house, crate your puppy so he cannot escape accidentally. Then turn on the lights and make the intruder know that it is unwelcome. Some coyotes are frightened away by people yelling and swinging sticks or a broom. If your puppy is in the yard, do whatever you can to frighten the coyote and get your puppy back into the house. Wild animals are usually shy and will run when confronted by people. If the animal seems friendly or bold, this may be a sign that it is sick. Leave it alone and call the Division of Wildlife to report the incident. There is more information about living with wildlife on the CSU Extension Website. Click here for more info on Urban Coyotes.

GASTRO-INTESTINAL SYSTEM
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	Bloat Bloat or torsion, technically called gastric dilation and volvulas (GDV) is an acute, life-threatening medical emergency. It may occur in dogs of any breed, sex or age. Gastric dilation is caused by distention of the stomach with air, food or water. Volvulas occurs when the stomach twists, preventing gas and fluids from exiting from the stomach, which leads to bleeding. While the cause is often unknown, the dog’s body shape may be a factor: GDV occurs most commonly in large breed, deep-chested dogs. *What to Watch For* Salivating, trying to vomit, but only getting foamy saliva; discomfort–not being able to get comfortable, or lie or sit still. Distended abdomen. Tongue and mouth getting chalky or lighter in color. Heavy panting. The dog eventually goes into shock from lack of blood flow to the rear part of the body and may collapse. What You Can Do Avoid strenuous exercise after your dog has had large quantities of food and water. If you suspect bloat, call the vet immediately and get emergency care.

	Diarrhea Diarrhea is the passage of loose, unformed stools, usually accompanied by an increased number of bowel movements. Puppies may develop diarrhea for any of a number of reasons–from changes in water, to eating foreign objects; from a change of diet, to an intestinal infection. Guide Dogs now worms new puppies prior to placing them with raisers. This eliminates the need for the flagyl that used come in the puppy packets, and has been helping new puppies have fewer loose stools. What You Can Do Guide Dogs recommends withholding all food (but not water) from the puppy for 24 hours after the first diarrhea stool is observed. Fasting rests the digestive system. For the next ten days, give the puppy a bland diet of two-thirds rice to one-third boiled chicken or hamburger. Boiling removes any fat from the meat that might irritate the pup’s gut. Vets carry bland dog food that can also be used. Food should be given in the amount and frequency of the puppy’s regular kibble. For example, if the pup gets one cup of dog food three times a day, feed one cup three times a day of bland diet. It’s important to continue the bland diet for the entire ten days. Starting the pup back on kibble too suddenly will merely bring on another bout of diarrhea. Re-introduce the pup’s dry food slowly over the next five days, by adding it to the bland diet in ever increasing amounts until the pup is completely back on its regular food again. Vet Visit: Mild diarrhea by itself may respond to the bland diet regimen. However, if you observe blood in your puppy’s stools, the puppy seems depressed, is vomiting, or gives you any other reason to be alarmed, a trip to the vet is probably warranted. Consult a leader if you think your puppy is sick enough to need medical help. Guide Dogs wants our pups to have good medical care. If your vet wants to run extensive tests, ask him to call the Guide Dog vet clinic directly. (Phone numbers are on the vet forms.) That way Guide Dogs can direct the treatment their puppy will receive.
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	Gas Dogs have gas from two sources: some dogs gulp air with excitement or play, which travels the length of the GI and then out the other end. The other, more common source is ingesting gas- producing foods. The most common culprit is corn. It ferments in the GI track and produces gas. Corn is, unfortunately, in almost all dog foods. (Some more so than others). Garbage mouth & filth eating could also be a culprit. What You Can Do Discuss a change of diet for your dog with your club leaders. (Remember, any time a Guide pup changes food, it must be approved first). Purge the yard of anything the dog may be snacking on, such as fruit fallen from trees; and faithfully clean up doggie waste. And remember, with any luck, this too, shall pass! From Randa MacMillian, D.V.M. and HPWT Veterinary Consultant

	Giardiasis And Coccidiosis Giardia and coccidia are a protozoan species that can cause loose stools or diarrhea, occasionally mixed with mucus and blood. The diseases cause problems more often for young puppies than older dogs. Coccidiosis is a more severe disease and can progress through loss of appetite, weakness, dehydration, and anemia. It may be accompanied by a cough, runny nose, and eye discharge. Dogs may contract either protozoa from contaminated feces or water. The organisms may be present without causing problems until the stress of another illness or a change of environment reduces their resistance. Diagnosis is made by examining a fecal sample. The vet will prescribe proper treatment, and usually the sick pup makes a speedy recovery. What You Can Do These diseases can be contracted by drinking infected water or eating contaminated material from the environment. Be espeically careful if you visit the mountains to keep your puppy from drinking water in mountain streams, or even standing water on neighborhood walks. If your puppy has diarrhea lasting more than two days, follow the instructions in the puppy raiser’s manual and consult with your leader to decide whether a vet visit is needed. If your puppy is diagnosed with giardia or coccidia, carefully follow the veterinarian’s instructions for administering medications. Keep the puppy’s living area and water bowls clean and remove solid waste immediately to keep the puppy from re-infecting itself or other dogs. Since these bugs are transferable to people, wash your hands thoroughly after handling the dog and do not allow it to lick you. It is especially important to be vigilant about cleanliness when young children come in contact with an infected animal.

REPRODUCTIVE SYSTEM
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	Cryptorchidism Cryptorchid puppies are males which have one or both testicles undescended (in the abdomen instead of in the scrotum). Testicles usually descend into the scrotum by six to eight weeks of age, but may not descend until six months of age. Testicles can retract into the inguinal canal when a puppy is cold, excited or active. These puppies are not Cryptorchid. What You Can Do If you suspect your pup is Cryptorchid, have a leader examine him. If the puppy is cryptorchid, GDB authorized neutering should be delayed until at least six months of age. Neutering a cryptorchid dog is similar to a spay, and involves an abdominal incision.

Back to top	Estrus (Heat Cycles) *Usually, females are placed for raising only in approved home-boarding homes, or with raisers who agree to kennel the female at their own expense.* *Remember to write your girl pup's in-season dates on your monthly report and project book . This information is invaluable if the pup should be chosen as a breeder dog!* From Randa MacMillian, D.V.M. Estrus (“heat”) is the mating period of female animals. When estrus occurs, animals are said to be “in heat” or “in season.” Dogs generally have their first estrus cycle at six to twelve months of age. Some females of the large breeds, however, may not have their first estrus until they are twelve to twenty-four months of age. The complete cycle takes about six months, resulting in two estrus periods each year. Individual variation occurs, but a given female’s pattern tends to be repeated regularly. The estrus cycle can be divided into four stages: 1. Proestrus: this stage begins with the appearance of vaginal bleeding. It normally lasts from four to nine days. Male dogs become very interested in the female; however, she will not yet mate with them. 2. Estrus: this is the stage in which the female will accept the male and conception can occur. The vaginal discharge is more yellowish than bloody. Ordinarily, the stage lasts from four to thirteen days. Your female will stand still and hold her tail to the side when you touch her back or a male dog tries to mount. 3. And 4. Metestrus and anestrus: these two stages are periods of ovarian activity, but with no significant outward signs. False pregnancies frequently occur during metestrus. Important Points: You should consider the dogs to be “in season” for twenty-one days: seven days coming into heat, seven days in heat, and seven days going out. Though conception is most likely during the middle seven days, Mother Nature doesn’t always follow the rules. Confine your dog for the entire three weeks. Remember that this information is general. Not all females follow these patterns. Consult with your leader if your pup does not seem typical. Sometimes, cycling problems can be an early warning of more serious problems, and the sooner they are dealt with, the better. Your leader can help you decide how best to follow up on an atypical estrus in a Guide Dog puppy. What you can do: If you are raising an intact female dog, begin monitoring her for signs of coming in season beginning at about six months of age. Her vulva will swell, she will lick herself more, and may act more “flaky” than usual when she’s getting ready for estrus. When you see bloody discharge, the pup has come into heat. The females must be kept on a leash at all times when in the yard, to avoid mis-breedings. She should be kept in a secure area of the house and crated when no one is home. Disposable diapers may be used part of the time to help with the mess, but should not be left on the dog in its crate to avoid its chewing and ingestion. No social outings are possible until the female is no longer in season. If you are planning to kennel your female at your own expense: Females should receive the nasal Bordatella vaccine when they receive their rabies shot at twenty weeks of age. The vaccine is effective for six months. If you are planning to board her, and it’s been more than six months since her Bordatella, she will need another booster before she can be kenneled. Remember, the kennel will ask for proof of vaccinations including rabies, parvo and Bordatella before they will accept your puppy. If you need help choosing a kennel, call Carmen before the first signs of estrus are observed.

SKIN, MUSCULES & BONES
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(Mange Mite)	Demodectic Mange Localized Demodectic mange is caused by a microscopic mite and is most common in dogs under one year of age. Nearly all dogs acquire mange mites from their mothers shortly after birth. The mites are normal, and produce disease only when an abnormal immune system allows their numbers to get out of control. Hair thins around the eyelids, lips and corners of the mouth until moth-eaten patches are about one inch in diameter. Legs and feet can also be involved. The skin may become red, scaly and infected. What You Can Do Localized mange usually heals spontaneously in six to eight weeks, but may come and go for several months. If more than five patches are present, the disease could be progressing to the generalized form and the animal should be seen by a veterinarian. Diagnosis is confirmed with skin scrapings. Medicated ointment may help.

	*Dry Nose* Several raisers have noticed their dogs' noses are dry and crusty. We asked the Vet Techs at Colorado Veterinary Specialists, and they said this is a common problem for dogs in the dry Colorado winter, just as dry, cracking lips are common for humans. *What you can do* Put Vaseline or the oil from a vitamin E capsule on the dog's nose if it seems too dry. It lasts for a few hours to a few days, depending on the weather or how much licking the dog does to remove the added ointment. Many folks prefer Vaseline because it is inexpensive, readily available and won't hurt the dog at all —no matter how much of the stuff he licks off. If the dry nose is accompanied by other symptoms of illness or you have any concerns about your dog's health, call a leader to discuss the need for a vet visit.
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	*Dry Skin* In Colorado, many of our puppies have dry skin, just as their human partners do. This can show up in the form of itchy skin and dandruff with no other symptoms of disease. What you can do Daily brushing with a stiff bristle brush stimulates the dog's natural oil and helps distribute it over the hair follicles, and may alleviate dry skin. If the problem persists, you can supplement your pup's diet with Omega fatty acids such as safflower oil or fish oil. Use caplets, which can be purchased in the health aisle—not liquid. Oil supplements can bring on diarrhea, so use the lowest possible dose that helps. Be sure to note the problem on your monthly report. If your puppy's symptoms include red skin, a rash, welts, or open sores, it is more serious than dry skin. Contact your leader immediately to discuss a vet visit.

	Elbow Dysplasia Elbow dysplasia occurs when the elbow joint develops incorrectly in one of several ways. It is a common cause of front-leg lameness in large-breed dogs, and is often associated with Osteochondrosis. Osteochondrosis occurs when the rapidly growing cartilage at the ends of the bones becomes calcified in an irregular instead of uniform fashion, creating defective cartilage over the ends of the bones. The cartilage then breaks off into loose fragments in the joint. Signs of elbow dysplasia appear in puppies at four to ten months of age, and consist of varying degrees of front-leg lameness that worsens with exercise. It may appear following a trauma such as jumping down stairs. Characteristically, the elbow is held outward from the chest and may appear swollen. The problem may mimic panosteitis. What You Can Do Whenever your dog is lame, contact your leader to discuss whether a vet visit is in order. Document the problem—which leg is lame, any known injuries or incidents, when the problem began, under what condition the dog limps (does it get worse after exercise?), and if it improves or worsens over time. Initial treatment for lameness involves restricting activity and analgesics prescribed by the vet. Diagnosis of elbow dysplasia must be confirmed by x-ray to rule out panosteitis or other conditions. In most cases, surgery is required. Unfortunately, elbow dysplasia is almost always sufficient cause to drop a dog from the puppy raising program.
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	Hip Dysplasia Hip dysplasia is a moderately heritable condition that occurs most often in dog breeds weighing more than 35 pounds as adults. The structure of the hip joint and loose ligaments allow the ball-shaped head of the thigh bone to work free of the socket in the pelvis. Joint laxity leads to abnormal wear and tear on the surfaces of the joint, and eventually, to arthritis. Some dogs show no signs of the condition unless X-rayed, others may show pain or walk with a limp or swaying gait. The OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) has a panel of radiologists who read the hip X-ray films of purebred dogs and grade them according to a scale. That’s what it means when a dog is referred to as hip-certified. Guide Dogs has its own experts that evaluate our puppies’ hip X-rays to determine if the dog is physically sound enough for guide work. What You Can Do There is much speculation as to environmental factors for hip dysplasia. The puppy foods Guide Dogs requires are formulated to slow growth on the theory that fast-growing bones are more at risk for dysplasia. Raisers are discouraged from pushing down on a very young puppy’s rear end when teaching sit, and from playing games that involve leaping high into the air, to reduce stress on developing bones and muscles. Sadly, no matter how rigorous the breeding standards, or how careful the handling, some puppies will still develop less than ideal hip structure. Guide Dogs mitigates the genetic factors for dysplasia by requiring its breeding stock to have excellent hip certification going back many generations. The dog’s littermates’ hips are even considered in selecting breeder dogs, because bad hips in the litter can indicate a genetic risk as well. It is extremely difficult for an untrained eye to spot hip dysplasia in very young dogs. X-rays are the definitive answer on the soundness of a puppy’s hips. There are several operations that may correct bad hips or give significant pain relief. Many dogs judged to have poor hips live happy, pain-free lives into old age.
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Underweight Ideal Weight Overweight	Maintaining Ideal Weight As our puppies grow, their caloric requirements constantly change. A young, growing, energetic puppy with a packed social schedule may require more food than a career change who lazes around the house all day. A puppy with a chunky build may look overweight but actually be thin, while a pup with a lighter build may be overweight but resemble his more massively built club-mate. Guide Dogs wants us to keep our dogs on the lean side of their ideal weight--this helps the dog avoid a tendency to obesity as it grows older. What You Can Do Puppy raisers must depend on the body view of the dog as a guide to whether the puppy needs more food or needs to be cut back. Examine your puppy from above regularly. The waist just behind the ribs should be visible, but if it is too pronounced, the dog may be too thin. No waist means your dog is overweight. From the side, look for a tuck just in front of the haunch. No tuck and the dog is overweight. Leaders are skilled at looking at all dog body types for ideal weight, so ask a leader if you need help deciding about your dog's weight. When a leader advises a change in your dog's rations, take it seriously and make the change.At the left some pictures that can help develop your eye for ideal weight: UNDERWEIGHT Ribs easily palpable, with minimal fat covering. Waist easily noted, when viewed from above. Abdominal tuck evident. IDEAL Ribs palpable without excess fat covering. Waist observed behind ribs when viewed from above. Abdomen tucked when viewed from the side. OVERWEIGHT Ribs palpable with slight excess fat covering. Waist is discernible when viewed from above, but is not prominent. Abdominal tuck apparent. Pictures and descriptions from Ralston Purina website.

	*Mouth Warts (Oral Papillomatosis)* Oral Papillomas are painless warts that grow on the lips and in the mouths of dogs younger than two years old. They are caused by the canine oral papilloma virus. Initially, papillomas are small and pink. Over four to six weeks they increase in size and assume a rough, grayish-white, cauliflowerlike appearance. As many as 50 to 100 papillomas may be present. Skin papillomas caused by the same virus are common and occur on the surface of the eyelids and the skin of the body. The warts usually disappear spontaneously in six to twelve weeks. If they fail to do so, they can be removed by surgery, freezing or electrocautery. Chemotherapy is effective in the case of numerous lesions. The dog’s immune system makes antibodies that prevent reinfection. *What You Can Do* Mouth warts are not cancerous and, while they look scary, are really no cause for alarm. If you find warts in your dog’s mouth, document the date you first noticed them, and monitor them. Sometimes they can even be rubbed off by abrasion with a soft cloth. As with all non-emergency conditions, contact a leader before you take your dog to the vet.
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	Panosteitis “Pano” is a disease of large, rapidly growing puppies between five and twelve months of age. The cause is unknown, but males are affected four times as often as females. Symptoms include intermittent lameness in one or more legs that is unrelated to trauma. A characteristic sign is pain and lameness that shifts from one limb to another over the course of several weeks or months. X-rays show increased density in a long bone. Lameness may persist for several months, but symptoms usually disappear by the time the dog is twenty months old. What You Can Do If your dog appears lame, but has not hurt himself recently, discuss the need for a vet visit with your leader. If your vet recommends X-rays to confirm pano and rule out osteochondrosis, elbow dysplasia or hip dysplasia, contact Guide Dogs for authorization of the procedure and pre-approval of the expense. The veterinarian can prescribe pain medication to relieve symptoms, and crate rest is recommended until the condition resolves on its own.

	Pressure sores Pressure sores are gray, hairless, wrinkled pads of thickened skin overlying a bony pressure point. They are caused by lying on a hard surface, and tend to occur in heavy dogs and dogs kenneled on cement floors. The most common site is the elbow, but anywere that the bone is close to the skin can be vunerable. If the callus goes unchecked, the surface breaks down, forming an ulcer that can become infected and difficult to treat. What You Can Do Provide the dogs with a soft sleeping surface or dog bed to take the pressure off the callus. An infected ulcer over bone must be treated by a veterinarian.

URINARY TRACT
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	Bladder Infection (Cystitis) Cystitis is a bacterial infection of the lining of the bladder. The most common signs of bladder infection are frequent urination and the presence of blood in the urine. The dog may strain to void or exhibit signs of pain on urination. Infected females may lick at their vulva and have a discharge. Cystitis must be treated promptly to prevent ascending infection and damage to the kidneys. What You Can Do Bladder infection is often discovered when a formerly housebroken dog begins to have accidents. It is difficult to detect in young, unhousebroken puppies. If your puppy is having difficulty mastering house training, wets in its kennel often, and needs to relieve more than about once an hour, a good first step is to rule out bladder infection. Call a leader to confirm the need for a vet visit, and prepare to take a urine sample with you. Often, the condition can be diagnosed by microscopic examination for bacteria and blood cells in the urine. The pH can also be a clue because the infection changes the urine’s normal acidity. Treatment includes antibiotics for ten days for the first bout, continued for at least three weeks if the infection persists.

	Marking Behavior At puberty, male dogs may begin to lift a leg while urinating. The stance allows them to deposit a powerful scent mark that sends a signal to other dogs that “Kilroy was here.” Other reasons dogs mark include dominance, antagonism, and anxiety. Marking is highly undesirable in Guide Dogs, and may cause removal from the program if the behavior persists when the dog is training in harness. What You Can Do When the puppy is on leash, never allow him to relieve without permission–even on neighborhood walks. Have him “do his business” before starting out, and allow several potty breaks if the walk or outing is longer than the dog can reasonably be expected to control himself. If the dog begins to sniff–especially around upright objects like bushes or store displays–correct him for it. He will be less likely to mark if he can’t chose the right spot to advertise his presence. If he truly needs to urinate, find an appropriate area–but only allow him to go at a place of your choosing and after removing his puppy coat and giving him the “do business” command. It’s okay for the dog to lift his leg when he urinates. It’s not okay for him to purposefully spray urine on an object in order to mark it with his scent. Since many young males use marking as a sort of olfactory one-upmanship, this behavior may indicate the dog has anxiety or dominance issues–he’s confused about who is in charge, or is trying to establish himself as top dog in his family “pack.” Raisers faced with a pubescent male may benefit from taking a stronger leadership role than they did with the dog as a young puppy. Always take the initiative in the relationship–control the food, the toys, even control when the dog will get attention. For example, if the dog demands to be petted while you’re busy doing something else, have him do a down-stay on the other side of the room instead. After he’s stayed there successfully for a few minutes, release him and praise him–the dog still gets the human interaction he craves, but now it is on your terms, not his. At feeding time, make it clear to the dog that you control his access to food by having him sit and wait for a minute or two after the bowl is set down. Likewise, always make sure you go through doors first, and make the dog get out of your way instead of going around him. In short, every member of the family should expect respect and demand that the dog gives it. Once the dog is sure his raisers are in charge, he will feel more secure about the world and hopefully feel less need to leave his mark on it. From: Dogs Behaving Badly by Dr. Nicholas Dodman. New York: Bantam. 1999. p. 208-213, 261-274. And from the GDB Puppy Raiser’s Manual, “Beyond Basic House-Breaking.”
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	Submissive Urination When a timid puppy feels insecure and threatened by a person, it may urinate as a gesture of submission and respect–thus the term “submissive urination.” The act may be triggered by such things as reaching for the dog’s collar, putting on its leash, or being spoken to or approached by certain people. Men, with their commanding presence, low voices, and larger stature are particularly good at eliciting submissive urination in susceptible dogs. As puppies grow in size and confidence, the incidence of submissive urination usually decreases and may entirely disappear, but the dog may also relapse when its confidence is shaky–for example, when it has been traded to a different raiser’s home. What You Can Do It’s important to understand the difference between submissive urination and housebreaking accidents. Submissive urination is not a housebreaking error–even though the puddle on the carpet may suggest otherwise–because the dog cannot consciously control it. Responding to the event with disciplinary action or anger only makes the situation worse–in an effort to appease, the dog may feel compelled to urinate again. The real remedy is to increase the dog’s confidence by making oneself less threatening. Dogs interpret direct eye contact as a dominance behavior, so avoid looking the dog directly in the face. Keep the dog by your side as much as possible–it’s less threatening than face-to-face interaction. Crouch down on the dog’s level and call it to you instead of looming over it. If the dog urinates when you come in the door, walk past the dog without looking at or talking to it. Play confidence-building games such as tug. Once the dog gains confidence in your presence, it won’t have to “compliment” your superiority by piddling on your shoes and the submissive urination will cease. Meanwhile, keeping a tight relieving schedule so the pup’s bladder is basically empty most of the time can minimize the amount of cleanup when submissive urination does happen. from: Dodman, Nicholas, The Dog Who Loved Too Much. New York: Bantam, 1996. P. 247-249.

CREDITS Back to top
	Unless otherwise noted, our information is taken from Dog Owner’s Home Veterinary Handbook, third ed. James M. Giffin, M.D. and Liisa D. Carlson, DVM. Howell Book House, NY, 2000, or the 2nd edition of the same book, published in 1980.